Tackle, Tactics and Experience
Lures - Not Just For Fun
An Introduction To Lure Fishing For Pike From The Bank For The Experienced Pike angler.
Part 2: Minimum Tackle Requirements
I will list my own tackle at the end of this section.
You will need a container for your lures, all sorts of buckets and boxes get pressed into service, I use and recommend a
Dart Book Lure
Having used various different
lure-fishing set-ups for different species in all kinds of waters I
think there is only one choice for serious pike fishing: that is a
shortish rod say 6 to 8 feet long capable of casting lures up to 3oz in
weight and a multiplier reel loaded with braided line of 50lb test.
I know most pikers will be
mortified at the thought of using a multiplier but there really is no
choice. Up until a couple of years ago I would have scoffed at anyone
who thought they could outfish a fixed spool reel with a multiplier, I
was very wrong. It will take practice to get the best from a multipier,
you will have a few tangles and overruns but you will become
proficient to the point where you will cast as easily and as far as
with a fixed spool reel and you will catch more fish!
I will describe retrieve
techniques in Part 3 but you will need to be able to work some lures
with twitches, pulls and jerks; try this with a fixed spool reel and
you will find loose line wrapping around handles and bale arms, a
multiplier eliminates these problems and looks after the line leaving
you free to concentrate on fishing.
There is a
growing choice of rods available in this size and casting range,
and making the right choice is vital. Stiffer rods cast heavier lures
and work them better but too stiff and they are a pain to play fish
with. With a softer rod you will struggle a bit to get some lures to
work properly but you will enjoy playing a lively pike hooked at close
range. I am happy using
DLST
rods, and all of my friends use them. Other lure anglers have their own favourites.
Choosing a reel is much simpler,
buy an ABU Ambassadeur 5501-C3. There are other reels that are cheaper,
but having tried a few I wouldn't buy one. More expensive reels are
available offering various features but in practical fishing I am not
sure that they really offer any advantages.
Braided line is expensive
compared to mono but essential for proper lure control. I have tried
various brands and not found one that was particularly good or bad,
just ensure that it has a round cross-section. Although 50lb test seems
heavy you will see that is about the same diameter as 15lb mono, lures
are expensive so it makes sense to protect them. With virtually zero
stretch braid is unforgiving, a casting tangle might stop your lure in
mid cast, it needs to be strong to withstand the shock. And of course
you do not want fragile line to break and leave lures in pike. You will
have to learn some new knots for tying braid, either a grinner or, much
simpler, a palomar. The grinner (or "uni-knot") looks neater when tied,
but I have had no problems with the palomar, although it does seem too
simple to be true, it works for me.
Trace wire needs to be beefed up
as well, I use 90lb test and my traces last a long time. Lighter lures
can have their action spoiled by heavy traces but generally there is
not a problem. Thickness does not seem to be a problem, fishing
alongside another angler using 50lb test traces there appears to be no
difference in our results. I don't worry about such things. Clips for
lure attachment must be strong and reliable.
The landing net you use for bait
fishing will be alright for lure fishing but you will spend a lot of
time untangling the lure hooks from the mesh after landing a fish and
it will not last long. Much better is a proper lure-mesh net that hooks
will not penetrate.
Long-nosed pliers are essential
for unhooking pike from lure-sized hooks and small bolt croppers very
useful for cutting hooks that sometimes get in difficult places.
Waders are an essential part of
my tackle, getting to places that are out of reach to the bank-bound
angler opens up more water. Where banks are overgrown you can sometimes
make better progress in the water. They also protect your legs against
nettles and thorns but they can be holed by hawthorn or blackthorn
spikes.
Polaroids and a peaked or wide-brimmed hat are essential to make fish and snag spotting easier.
A stone or file for hook sharpening.
I also carry a weigh-sling and
scales, camera and spare film, mobile phone, lure retriever, spare
long-nosed pliers, scissors, a first-aid kit which includes headache
tablets and anti-sting ointment, a pen and paper, toilet paper,
secateurs, and a small box which contains spare traces, hooks, split
rings, a couple of square inches of lead sheet, clear nail lacquer,
black and red permanent marker, spare rubber beads, reel lube and
spanner.
This lot fits into a large rucksack and the pockets of a waistcoat.
My Tackle
Rod: DLST Raider, fine for most
lures, occasionally I wish it was a bit stiffer to work some jerkbaits
but for safe fish playing this rod is superb. Rated at 1 to 2.5oz I
find I can get away with casting - gently - lures up to 3.5oz. I have
used a shorter, much stiffer jerkbait rod and was aware that I could do
a lot more with some lures, but it was horribly stiff with a fish on,
smaller pike tended to shake themselves off and bigger ones had me
frantically backing off the clutch to ease the pressure on the line
etc. It was not my idea of fun. I have recently (July '99) bought a
DLST Prowler Plus and am most impressed with its ability to cast and
work big baits while still being soft enough to be a pleasure to play
fish on.
Reel: Abu Ambassadeur 5501-C3, I also use the slightly bigger 6501-C3.
Line: At the moment I have Mason
Tiger Braid 50lb b.s. loaded on the 5501 and Power Pro 80lb on the
6501. As I mentioned, I have no strong preference and will replace
these lines when necessary with whatever I can find at the right price.
Wire: Brown 7 strand 40kg test from
Rok-Max.
I like this wire and do not envisage trying anything else.
Landing net: I use a Fast-Net
42" triangular landing net which is easy to carry and quick to open up.
I have had this for ten years now and it still works although I
remember I had to re-glue the arms to the sliding block not long after
I bought it. The original mesh lasted for ages but since then I have
struggled to match that quality until recently when I bought a new mesh
from DLST which appears identical to the original. They are still
available from Friendly Fisherman. Some lure anglers prefer round nets,
but I cannot see that they offer any advantage.
Choosing Your Lures - Note: March 2006 the lure list is out of date, I will revise it in the future.
I will keep the choices as
simple as possible, and as small as I think feasible, bearing the cost
in mind. Remember that this advice is aimed at serious pikers who want
to use lures when they are a smart option, then the choice of lures
will be based on suitable types for the preferred types of water
already described. This is not intended to be a comprehensive list,
just my opinion of the essential minimum needs, there are plenty of
other effective lures that could be included. Some anglers will be
surprised at the large size of some of the plugs, but a 10" livebait,
while being on the large side, is not too big for even a modest pike. I
know that you will catch a better stamp of pike if you use bigger
lures.
Lets start at the top, you might
be surprised to find that pike, including big ones, can be caught on
the surface using lures. In fact, from late spring well into the
autumn, surface lures sometimes provide the most reliable sport, as
well as sometimes spectacular entertainment.
Any floating lure can be worked
very slowly at the surface and sometimes they will catch pike, but
special surface plugs, sometimes called "topwaters" are best. As usual
with lures there are many varieties and hybrid forms but I will stick
to just two basic types that I consider most useful.
Stick baits are lipless floating
plugs that have no action when simply cranked in but come alive when
retrieved with rod-top twitches.
Recommended: Hi Fin Skywalker, Poe's Jackpot
Prop baits are floating plugs
that have one or more propellors or blades at the front or rear. These
propellors or blades will make a noise, flash and churn up the water
when retrieved, usually leaving a pronounced wake that pike can home in
on.
Recommended: Poe's Awaker, Poe's Tail
Next let us choose some diving plugs. In the shallower waters
considered by this piece - less than 12ft deep - most of the pike will
be caught in the top half of the water, our choice of diving plugs will
reflect this. You may have come across terms such as "minnow-" and
"crank-" baits, these distinctions are not important for us, our diving
plugs will float at rest then dive and wobble when retrieved.
Recommended: Rapala Supershad Rap, Muskie Mania Jake 10", Bomber Magnum
Long A Minnow, Nilsmaster Invincible, Luhr Jensen Javelin. Muskie Mania
Lil' Ernie. Manns 1-Minus, Bagley Monster Shad, Abu Hi-Lo 40g.
Jerkbaits have sufffered from a
reputation of being difficult to use, some are, many are not. They are
vital lures that often catch pike when nothing else will. Sinking
jerkbaits can be used to search all depths.
Recommended: Ace Flipper, Hellraiser Cherry Bomb, Muskie Mania Burt (Shallow and Weighted), Odyssey Pig.
Spinnerbaits are strange-looking
metal lures with a spinning blade and a lead-headed hook with a rubber
or bucktail skirt. Easy to use and suitable for all depths, they are
reliable pike catchers in warm water.
Recommended: D.L. Marauders, one spinnerbait is much like another, look
for 1oz or heavier sizes, round blades lift the lure more than thin
blades.
Traditional bar spinners are
often associated with small pike. Bigger spinners with bucktail
trailers are effective for all sizes of pike.
Recommended: Mepps Giant Lusox, Mepps Musky Killer, again one is much like another, look for 1oz plus sizes.
Shopping List 1
Ten lures to take on your first summer trip:
-
Poe's Jackpot - any colour
-
Poe's Awaker - any colour
-
Rapala Supershad - silver roach
-
Rapala Supershad - fire tiger
-
Bomber Magnum Long A - silver flash (or similar)
-
Muskie Mania Lil Ernie - Tenessee Shad
-
Muskie Mania Burt Shallow - fire tiger
-
Odyssey Pig 6" Suspending - chartreuse/black spots
-
Any 1oz bucktail spinner
-
Any 1.5oz spinnerbait
Shopping List 2
Ten lures to take on your first winter trip
-
Rapala Supershad - silver roach
-
Rapala Supershad - fire tiger
-
Nilsmaster Invincible 180mm - red head
-
Abu Hi-Lo 40g - blue pike
-
Lure Jensen Javelin - fire tiger
-
Muskie Mania Jake 10" - Tennessee Shad
-
Hellraiser Cherry Bomb - super shad
-
Muskie Mania Burt Weighted - Tennessee shad
-
Ace Flipper - black/silver
-
Odyssey Pig 6" Suspending - whitefish
Notes
These are generalisations.
Pike will be caught more often
near the surface in warmer water, certainly surface lures are not for
winter use. But even in cold water, pike will often prefer lures fished
well off the bottom, trying to roughly quantify that statement I would
say that in a 10ft deep water I would expect most summer fish to come
from 0 to 6ft down, whereas in winter I would expect 3 to 8ft to be
best. If there is cover in the water near or on the surface, such as
fallen trees or weed, then sheltering pike will be close to the surface
as well, even in winter.
Some lures obviously overlap the
summer and winter depth ranges, the chief difference between successful
cold and warm water lures is that the faster actions of spinners,
spinnerbaits and the more "wriggly" diving plugs are less effective in
cold water. Quieter actioned lures, even if fished quickly, work best
in winter. Notice I have chosen only two colour patterns, either a
basic pale/silver fish colour or fire tiger, these are more or less the
two most useful patterns for most pike work, and I am keen on white for
winter use.
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